Remove (and put back) Feed Fork Connection Singer 66 99

So I'm working on a Singer 66 Red Eye.  I want to remove the Feed Fork Connection so I can CLEAN it!
Note: these instructions relate to Singer 99, 127 and 128 as well.

This machine, like many vintage machines that have been sitting in God knows where for 50-60 years, has so much GUNK and rust just caked onto all the metal that I had to take it apart down to the Head. This post is to remind me (and help you) figure out how I took this thing apart and how to get it back together so I don't have to re-invent the wheel (figuratively speaking) the next time I do this.   I usually don't need to take them apart this far, but this was an extreme case.  So without further delay...here's how to "Remove (and put back) the Feed Fork connection" 

Let's first identify some parts:

insert feed fork pic

insert feed rock shaft

Here's the text from an old adjuster's manual with HORRIBLE pictures.

 STEP 1: "To remove the feed fork connection, first remove the eccentric screw C2 (see pic 1) and nut D2 (see pic 1), disengaging the feed fork connection N2 (see pic 1), from the feed rock shaft O2, (see pic 1)."

Ok - so how...why, what???  The pic they have is a pencil drawing of the entire underbody of the machine..   NOT HELPFUL.   So here's the real deal. Put the machine in front of you on a table so you are looking at the BACK of the machine.   Lay it down gently with the front of the machine to the tabletop, exposing her underbelly.   Bottom left corner of the machine is where the Feed Fork Connection is connected on the bottom.    We need to release the fork from the bottom first.

Get yourself a 3/8 wrench to fit over the nut on the right side

Using your right hand, put the wrench over the nut so that you can hold it in place.

Using your Left Hand, fit the appropriate sized screwdriver to fit perfectly in the slot of the eccentric screw that is securing the Feed Fork Connection to the Feed Rock Shaft.  Note: I use Chapman bits - #98 is pretty close

Once the nut is removed, the eccentric screw will not come out until you remove the screw that tightens around the "eccentric" part of the screw!

Three pieces removed to get the end of the Feed Fork Connection Loose on the bottom

Ok great - Step 1 is done.   What's next?

STEP 2: "Loosen the thumb screw J2, (see pic), turn the arm side cover up, as shown in Fig 43, and retighten the thumb screw J2."

Yet more terrible pictures.  So what are they saying??

Open the back cover.... or remove it

This next part just cracked me up...

Step 3: "Loosen the set screw K2, Fig 45, in the feed cam and move the feed cam Q3, Fig 45, toward the arm rock shaft F3. Fig 45.   Remove the feed fork connection N2, Fig 45 and roller P2, Fig 45."

Here's the image they provide.  A Skeleton pic - with no head.   Yeah...

So what does that step really entail?   Why?  How?  "MOVE the feed cam??"   You're kidding right?
So this sent me on a search through my files for a parts list with pictures of the part.   This thing is so dark and filthy I can hardly SEE screws or anything else in there!   And there's a cast iron WALL blocking me from pulling the fork out....it doesn't bend people. Who WROTE this thing??   And there's a Stitch Length knob in there and pieces attached to the side??   Hello?

Ok - so again, here's the real deal:

The  "K2 Set Screw" is the screw in the feed cam. 

So here's where I kinda started scratching my head and laughing.   I tried a screw driver and a small hammer.   They said the feed cam moves....   uh....no it doesn't.   Is it supposed to?  Does it really need to?    So I tried wriggling the Feed Fork Connection out ignoring that part....cuz it definitely doesn't move...    I scratch my head some more....   Finally I look up the feed cam in an old parts manual to see what the part looks like....

Feed Cam

Well lookit that...   it's a separate part.   Not a great image, but it helped me figure out that that eccentric tear drop side on the left will likely need to be pointing down in order for the fork to come out.    That's helpful, but the Feed Fork has a piece sticking out that is engaged into the Stitch Length knob on the front.  That thing is NOT coming out without moving the feed cam, that's for sure.

I looked closely at the set screw I took out - it's got a pointed tip, that goes into the groove on the main shaft to hold it in place!  

Well I'll tell you what, I don't think that set screw was necessary after all these years, because that thing is ON there.   With Rust, crud and God knows what else...   So to MOVE the Feed Cam...here's the "real deal".    PB Blaster....Oil - cleaner, Q-tips, whatever you can get in there.    You gotta get that crub gooey to get her moving.    It's the only way.   After you get it nice and gooey (I let PB Blaster soak in under that groove for about 15 minutes) THEN.....Get out some Locking Pliers (Vice Grips)!!!

Important!  Wrap the metal you are securing and moving.  Slippage will cause DAMAGE!  I locked the main shaft with one pair and gave it a confident turn on the Feed Cam with another pair.

Feed Cam flush against the Feed Fork Connection prior to moving the Feed Cam towards the Main shaft.

Feed Cam moved about 1/4" towards the shaft AFTER lubrication and careful turning with 2 pairs of vice grips.  See how the groove on the main shaft doesn't line up with the set screw hole anymore?   It really does move!

Once I got that feed cam spinning freely - I was able to move it over just enough to give me some wiggle room with the other end of the Feed Fork Connection.    You've got to be able to angle the fork enough to get the "ROLLER" that they mention out of the Stitch Length Regulator slideway piece that is screwed onto the inside of the head!

From the bottom, grab the end of the Feed Fork Connection and bring it up to the backside of the head

Turn that Feed Cam so that the teardrop shape is pointed down.  You have to shimmy that ROLLER that is attached to the Feed Fork Connection OUT of the Stitch Length Regulator piece before it will come out of the bottom.  TIP : The Stitch Regulator screw on the front of the machine should only show about 3 or 4 threads, this is a good position to get that roller free.

Once you clear the roller out of the slideway on the stitch regulator and position the Feed Cam just right to get it out, there is one little sweet spot (turning and shimmying) that will let it free and you can pull it out of the bottom of the Head.

Here's the "FREED" Feed Fork Connection with the Roller removed off of the center Pin. YUCK!

At this point - of course, I'm going to take all the Stitch regulator pieces out and clean those too.

Remove Hinge Screw, washer, Feed Regulator and the big ol screw knob on the front.

You might be wondering at this point why I didn't tell you to take the Stitch Length Regulator out before the fork.   Well, you gotta put the Stitch Length Regulator back in FIRST, so all the work to move the feed cam was necessary anyway.

IMPORTANT NOTE - Be sure there is SOME play between the feed cam and the Feed connecting fork!    It machine feels like it's "binding" - this might be too tight.