Remove (and put back) the Hook on Singer 66 99

Time for a little VISUAL help with these old service\adjusters manuals.   I have a tendency to look up everything and anything when I'm working on a machine.   And frankly, I'm tired of thinking, now where did I put that file??   So I'm making my own adjusters manual.  LOL  Kind of.

Remove (and put back) the Hook on Singer 66 99
Text reads:
To Remove the Sewing Hook
1) Remove the oscillating hook slide, presser foot, throat plate and bobbin case.
Note: if you are working on a REAL OLD 66, like from a treadle cabinet - the bobbin case is a bit more difficult to remove.   It will come out easier in step 3.

2) Turn the machine over on its hinges, take out the screw (N, Fig 8) and remove the feed dog. (I use Chapman Bit #93)

3) Also loosen the set screw (P, Fig 8) and lift out the bobbin case position bracket (F, Fig 5).

First item to note here - is that there are TWO versions of the bobbin case position bracket. So it's not going to make any sense if you are working on a hundred year old machine. See the picture below to understand the difference.

So this step is valid on a Model 99 and later Model 66's.  Solid Hand Wheel is a good rule of thumb here.   If it's a solid wheel - there is a set screw under the machine bed that releases the riveted Pin seating the bobbin case position bracket.  The next photo is the set screw they are talking about.  If that set screw isn't on your machine, then you are looking at the OLDER model, which I'll get into after.

So if you SEE this set screw - you'd need to loosen (or I would remove personally, so I can stick oil, PB Blaster or whatever it takes to get all that gunk out of there) to release the Bobbin case position bracket.  Once that set screw is super loose (or out) the bracket will come out. (yeah right).   I stick a screwdriver under it and gently pry it up.  After this is all clean - it's a moot point.   It drops in easily and you just turn that set screw back in to tighten it.  It's the dirt, grime, dust bunnies, etc that makes it seem difficult to get out.

The position pin on the bottom of the part goes into a hole under the hook.  The "Set Screw" under the bed is what holds it in place.

With the OLDER model 66's, with a spoked hand wheel, there's no set screw under the hook area.  It has a SOLID position finger that does NOT move and one screw that holds it down in there, instead of a riveted pin and set screw.  Most manuals tell you to move over the position finger to get the bobbin case out.    With this model - you can't.   You have to remove the entire bracket to get the bobbin case out.  I use a Chapman Bit #90 here.

4) Loosen the oscillating hook crank clamping screw (O, Fig 8)

5) Also loosen the presser bar bracket screw (M, Fig7) and raise the presser bar high enough to permit the sewing hook to be lifted from the machine.

This is another one of those steps that makes me chuckle.   Such a simple sentence but SOOOO much work to make it happen after these old girls have been neglected for so long.....

So let me show you what screw they are talking about.   The circled screw is the one that needs to be loosened.   I use Chapman Bit #25.

Do yourself a favor and lubricate this area REALLY well before you go after the presser bar bracket screw (blue circle).    I keep mentioning the Chapman Bits because they are, in my humble opinion, the most perfect fit on Singer Screws.

The bit fills the slot on the top of the screw so perfectly that unless you are being REALLY careless, you will avoid stripping the top of any screw.   But I digress.   The important thing to note here is that even if you get that set screw loose....that presser bar isn't going to move without some work.   Lubricate with oil, PB Blaster if needed.  The presser bar needs to be able to move up quite a bit to give the hook clearance to lift out.   I also unscrew the Presser Bar Pressure screw (blue arrow) up at the top as far as it will go.   If you take the Presser bar Pressure Screw OUT - watch you don't lose the washer that is right underneath it.  Below is a picture to give you an idea of how much clearance you need to get the hook out.

So after ALL of that...let's talk about how to ACTUALLY get that hook out.  Because you are probably looking at that picture and asking yourself.. "How in the hell did she do that??  That thing is NOT moving!"

Yeah - more lubrication, PB Blaster, etc.  Take a look at the next photo if you can't get it out.  The RED circle is the oil hole for the hook.   Load that hole up good.  The BLUE arrow is the screw that you loosened in Step 4.   It's what clamps that piece onto the very bottom of the hook.  If it's not loose enough - it's not going to go anywhere.   The GREEN arrow is the end of a screwdriver pointing at the bottom of the hook piece.   You can gently tap the handle end of a screwdriver to try to get it to move a little more.

Putting it all back:

So HOURS and HOURS later, after you have cleaned all the new areas you can get to and all the parts you removed, we want to put it back together.  Well it's not just put everything back where you found it.   We have a few things to tweak:

- We need to "time" the hook so that it will sew again!
- We need the feed dogs to be where we want them to be!
- We need that presser bar back in the right position and make sure our presser foot isn't crooked and applies pressure appropriately!

1)  Put the hook back in the machine.    Turn the balance wheel until the needle bar is in the lowest position.  Put the hook in so that the hook tip is right around where the tip of the needle will be. (Don't worry - we will adjust this more precisely when we "time" the machine.)

Make sure the bottom end of the hook goes back into that clamp underneath. Then gently tighten that clamping screw so that it grips the base of the hook to now turn when you turn the balance wheel.

2) Put the Bobbin Case Position Bracket back in the machine. Note: if you are working on the older model like i am - you will remove this again after the machine is in "time" and shimmy that bobbin case back in later.

If you are working on the more common model, you put the pin on the bottom of the bracket in the hole and tighten the set screw underneath the bed of the machine.

Remove (and put back) Feed Fork Connection Singer 66 99

So I'm working on a Singer 66 Red Eye.  I want to remove the Feed Fork Connection so I can CLEAN it!
Note: these instructions relate to Singer 99, 127 and 128 as well.

This machine, like many vintage machines that have been sitting in God knows where for 50-60 years, has so much GUNK and rust just caked onto all the metal that I had to take it apart down to the Head. This post is to remind me (and help you) figure out how I took this thing apart and how to get it back together so I don't have to re-invent the wheel (figuratively speaking) the next time I do this.   I usually don't need to take them apart this far, but this was an extreme case.  So without further delay...here's how to "Remove (and put back) the Feed Fork connection" 

Let's first identify some parts:

insert feed fork pic

insert feed rock shaft

Here's the text from an old adjuster's manual with HORRIBLE pictures.

 STEP 1: "To remove the feed fork connection, first remove the eccentric screw C2 (see pic 1) and nut D2 (see pic 1), disengaging the feed fork connection N2 (see pic 1), from the feed rock shaft O2, (see pic 1)."

Ok - so how...why, what???  The pic they have is a pencil drawing of the entire underbody of the machine..   NOT HELPFUL.   So here's the real deal. Put the machine in front of you on a table so you are looking at the BACK of the machine.   Lay it down gently with the front of the machine to the tabletop, exposing her underbelly.   Bottom left corner of the machine is where the Feed Fork Connection is connected on the bottom.    We need to release the fork from the bottom first.

Get yourself a 3/8 wrench to fit over the nut on the right side

Using your right hand, put the wrench over the nut so that you can hold it in place.

Using your Left Hand, fit the appropriate sized screwdriver to fit perfectly in the slot of the eccentric screw that is securing the Feed Fork Connection to the Feed Rock Shaft.  Note: I use Chapman bits - #98 is pretty close

Once the nut is removed, the eccentric screw will not come out until you remove the screw that tightens around the "eccentric" part of the screw!

Three pieces removed to get the end of the Feed Fork Connection Loose on the bottom

Ok great - Step 1 is done.   What's next?

STEP 2: "Loosen the thumb screw J2, (see pic), turn the arm side cover up, as shown in Fig 43, and retighten the thumb screw J2."

Yet more terrible pictures.  So what are they saying??

Open the back cover.... or remove it

This next part just cracked me up...

Step 3: "Loosen the set screw K2, Fig 45, in the feed cam and move the feed cam Q3, Fig 45, toward the arm rock shaft F3. Fig 45.   Remove the feed fork connection N2, Fig 45 and roller P2, Fig 45."

Here's the image they provide.  A Skeleton pic - with no head.   Yeah...

So what does that step really entail?   Why?  How?  "MOVE the feed cam??"   You're kidding right?
So this sent me on a search through my files for a parts list with pictures of the part.   This thing is so dark and filthy I can hardly SEE screws or anything else in there!   And there's a cast iron WALL blocking me from pulling the fork out....it doesn't bend people. Who WROTE this thing??   And there's a Stitch Length knob in there and pieces attached to the side??   Hello?

Ok - so again, here's the real deal:

The  "K2 Set Screw" is the screw in the feed cam. 

So here's where I kinda started scratching my head and laughing.   I tried a screw driver and a small hammer.   They said the feed cam moves....   uh....no it doesn't.   Is it supposed to?  Does it really need to?    So I tried wriggling the Feed Fork Connection out ignoring that part....cuz it definitely doesn't move...    I scratch my head some more....   Finally I look up the feed cam in an old parts manual to see what the part looks like....

Feed Cam

Well lookit that...   it's a separate part.   Not a great image, but it helped me figure out that that eccentric tear drop side on the left will likely need to be pointing down in order for the fork to come out.    That's helpful, but the Feed Fork has a piece sticking out that is engaged into the Stitch Length knob on the front.  That thing is NOT coming out without moving the feed cam, that's for sure.

I looked closely at the set screw I took out - it's got a pointed tip, that goes into the groove on the main shaft to hold it in place!  

Well I'll tell you what, I don't think that set screw was necessary after all these years, because that thing is ON there.   With Rust, crud and God knows what else...   So to MOVE the Feed Cam...here's the "real deal".    PB Blaster....Oil - cleaner, Q-tips, whatever you can get in there.    You gotta get that crub gooey to get her moving.    It's the only way.   After you get it nice and gooey (I let PB Blaster soak in under that groove for about 15 minutes) THEN.....Get out some Locking Pliers (Vice Grips)!!!

Important!  Wrap the metal you are securing and moving.  Slippage will cause DAMAGE!  I locked the main shaft with one pair and gave it a confident turn on the Feed Cam with another pair.

Feed Cam flush against the Feed Fork Connection prior to moving the Feed Cam towards the Main shaft.

Feed Cam moved about 1/4" towards the shaft AFTER lubrication and careful turning with 2 pairs of vice grips.  See how the groove on the main shaft doesn't line up with the set screw hole anymore?   It really does move!

Once I got that feed cam spinning freely - I was able to move it over just enough to give me some wiggle room with the other end of the Feed Fork Connection.    You've got to be able to angle the fork enough to get the "ROLLER" that they mention out of the Stitch Length Regulator slideway piece that is screwed onto the inside of the head!

From the bottom, grab the end of the Feed Fork Connection and bring it up to the backside of the head

Turn that Feed Cam so that the teardrop shape is pointed down.  You have to shimmy that ROLLER that is attached to the Feed Fork Connection OUT of the Stitch Length Regulator piece before it will come out of the bottom.  TIP : The Stitch Regulator screw on the front of the machine should only show about 3 or 4 threads, this is a good position to get that roller free.

Once you clear the roller out of the slideway on the stitch regulator and position the Feed Cam just right to get it out, there is one little sweet spot (turning and shimmying) that will let it free and you can pull it out of the bottom of the Head.

Here's the "FREED" Feed Fork Connection with the Roller removed off of the center Pin. YUCK!

At this point - of course, I'm going to take all the Stitch regulator pieces out and clean those too.

Remove Hinge Screw, washer, Feed Regulator and the big ol screw knob on the front.

You might be wondering at this point why I didn't tell you to take the Stitch Length Regulator out before the fork.   Well, you gotta put the Stitch Length Regulator back in FIRST, so all the work to move the feed cam was necessary anyway.

IMPORTANT NOTE - Be sure there is SOME play between the feed cam and the Feed connecting fork!    It machine feels like it's "binding" - this might be too tight.

Rewiring a Singer Potted Motor (Worst Case Scenario)

Once upon a time, I fell in love.   In love with bringing old, abandoned, vintage Singer Sewing Machines back to life.  My absolute favorite, still remains, the Singer 201-2.

 There are so many valuable resources out there for the novice that is just getting started with this life-altering obsession.   There's a Vintage Sewing Machine Facebook group with currently over 20,000 members, a discussion thread on Quilting Board, You Tube Channels and blogs.

One of the most valuable resources when I was first starting out was http://vssmb.blogspot.com/  - the Holy Grail in my honest opinion - "The Vintage Singer Sewing Machine Blog".   Oh the sadness when I realized that it's a "historical only" resource with the last entry dated July 14, 2013.   I've referenced that blog over and over and over again.

One of my favorite posts is the series on rewiring a potted motor (BEST CASE scenario) http://vssmb.blogspot.com/2012/01/complete-how-to-re-wire-potted-motor.html  Thank goodness the first half-dozen potted motors I re-wired were textbook BEST CASE....  because I don't know if I would have kept going with this passion if this happened in those first few years.

Unfortunately - of late - I have only come across WORST Case Scenario's....  and figured it was about time to blog it out for my own reference.   I can't even describe the flip your stomach does when you remove the terminal plug on a Singer 201 and find this:  Sigh.....damn.  Poor Poor baby....

Singer 201-2 Subject A

Might as well dig in and remove all the wires from the terminals.

Singer 201-2 Subject A

 If you notice discrepancies in my photos, it's because I have TWO "Worst Case Scenarios" going at the same time here.  (What are the chances of THAT???)   I'll try to remember to caption each photo so you can distinguish them.  The first machine, I had actually set aside for a later date because I have a deadline for this customer.   Then when I got to the motor off the second one....well.....hence the post.   (sigh)

Singer 201-2 Subject A

The photo above, Subject A, while depressing, isn't the worst... But electrical tape??  Come on people.  Who does that??  

Singer 201-2 Subject B

Subject B is probably the worst I've seen.  I've already gently used the end of a small screwdriver to dig out the GOOP that was remaining of the grommet..   The black sticky rubber goop is also on the machine head and inside the motor.   So here we go:

If you have already looked through the other blog link I posted above on Best Case Scenario, you'll see all the detailed removal of parts, etc.   I'm just going to dig in and get these girls working again

Singer 201-2 Subject B

See that slimy shiny stuff on the carbon brushes?   Yeah...that's bad.  REAL bad.  THAT is what happens when you stick oil (or grease) in the wrong hole on a motor.  Carbon brushes are attached to springs and then capped with those very fragile Bakelite screws.  NOTHING is supposed to go in there ever, except when replacing the carbon brushes.  That area of the motor is supposed to stay completely dry, free of debris, moisture, and most especially OIL or GREASE.   The DRY carbon brushes make contact with the copper commuter and the commuter goes round and round and round very fast.  Pretty little sparks sometimes when you go REAL fast.  Which is perfectly fine might I add, if wired correctly.  If not, melting CAN ensue...  But I digress.   The spring attached to the top of the carbon brush, is held in an "unsprung" state by those Bakelite caps and applies enough pressure to the carbon so that it lightly touches the copper and it forms a gentle arch to the shape of the commuter.  This is part of what makes it go VRoooooommmmm.....

What we have here, is no sign of copper on the commuter (which I already removed), we have a black sludgy mess.  

I had to cut the wires really close (way closer than I'd like) because they were all frayed and covered with goop.  Did I mention that the goop USED to be a rubber grommet protecting the wires?  It was also part of the sheath on the wires.   Crappy wires I might add.  

Singer 201-2 Subject B

Ok....just finished opening Subject A....I take my previous statement back.   I'm not sure which is worse....

Singer 201-2 Subject A

It's not going to clean up itself.   Gloves, Q-tips, toothpicks and Isopropyl Alcohol.  Dig in.  

The Tools to Use

As soon as the Q-tip is black, roll it to a clean spot, blacken it up, flip...repeat, dispose.

Singer 201-2 Subject A

This is NOT a quick process....but worth it for a "forever" machine

Singer 201-2 Subject A

The above shot it for understanding.   There is a thin washer on the end of the commuter.  Do NOT forget to put it back in when you put it back together.   Let me explain why!   See that tiny hole on the left side of the permanent brass ring?   That hole leads back to one of the grease cups.   This is what you are actually lubricating when you add grease to a motor.  The other end has a little brass cap over it.   The WASHER restricts the flow of the grease to JUST the end of the commuter!   It is, after all, metal on metal there. If you lose the brass washer, don't bother putting the motor back together.  You put the carbon brushes and the wiring in jeopardy of lubricant!   AGAIN!     

Singer 201-2 Subject A

The picture above is a gentle reminder of what happens when you take shortcuts and use electrical tape around bare wire instead of properly insulating it with solder and Heat Shrink Tubing.   Electrical tape is NOT for bare wire!   PERIOD!   It eventually heats up and melts.   

Singer 201-2 Subject A

Here is where we UNDO what the previous genius (ahem - hobbyist) did.   I removed all of the electrical tape and used Isoprophyl Alcohol on a qtip to clean the wire in preparation for soldering new ends.  Keep doing it until the paper towel under the wires wipes clean.

Singer 201-2 Subject A

MANY hours, hundreds of Q-tips, toothpicks, dental picks, an eraser, more Isoprophyl Alcohol, paper towels and new grease wicks later, all our parts are cleaned and ready to bring her back to life!

Singer 201-2 Subject A

That last photo reminds me of one particular guest at a lecture that I did last summer on Vintage Singer Sewing Machines.  Whilst the majority of the group was engaged and in awe of what it truly meant to restore and maintain one of these old machines, one wasn't so interested.  Annoyed even. Up until my lecture, she had never taken apart a sewing machine motor to inspect\refurbish\rewire it.  Apparently she liked to hunt Featherweights and resell them to the locals. Would blow out lint with canned air, oil, add new grease on top of the old grease and jack up the price $200 and then re-sell them as fully serviced.  While a Featherweight is a little less involved than a Singer with a potted motor, there is still much to know and take into account before you decide to "do business with friends" in my humble opinion. I smiled kindly at her after the demonstration, gave her a few of my business cards, and didn't say another word. I have since then gotten several calls from HER customers. They tell me that she highly recommends my services!   Sometimes, the know-it-alls that give you a not-so-nice first impression can become great allies if you respond respectfully!  I add this story to reinforce my reasoning for doing this blog post.   Knowledge sharing, is something that I strongly believe in.  My blog has been sparse this past year, but I really do plan on changing that in the coming new year.  :-)

Back to our already scheduled program!

Subject 201-2 Subject A

Lead wires trimmed to about an inch long, braided with copper wire, soldered and insulated with heat shrink tubing. Red on top, black on bottom. 

Singer 201-2 Subject A

Underwriters knot on the wires, more heat shrink tubing on both wires. Next, before you go any further, install a new grommet on the motor. You need a 3/8" diameter rubber grommet.

Singer 201-2 Subject A

Once the grommet is installed, feed the heat shrunk portion of the wires through and start putting your motor back together.   Tuck all the wires around the motor screws, put the washer on the end of the commuter, feed it back in (through the worm).   One screw on the worm goes into the flat portion of the shaft and the other, just screw in (more stability).  I add about a teaspoon or so of grease right on the worm.   The grease I use is is Polylube, the brand doesn't matter.   It's a polyurea Grease (Petroleum based) and can withstand hot and cold.   Bike shops use it.  It's a super slippery formula, kinda like that weird jelly stuff you used to play with as a kid.  It inhibits corrosion and WON'T harden like Lithum, plumbers grease or any other cheap stuff people buy to lubricate gears. 

Singer 201-2 Subject A

Singer 201-2 Subject A

The other end of the commuter peeks through the end under a brass-like screw.   I put a dot of grease there as well.

Singer 201-2 Subject A

I put a little bit of grease on the new wicks, feed them in (spring side up) and put the clips back in.   More grease - these are the actual grease cups - they feed grease to the worm and the other end of the commuter behind that little washer.  Remember the little pin hole?  Screw the grease cup caps back on.

Singer 201-2 Subject A

The machine head where the wiring melted to it has been all cleaned up.   Removed all the old rubber from the electrical tape fiasco and cleaned out the even older wire insulation crumbs. There was also hardened tan colored something (which I assume the previous "service" person decided was good enough to use as grease)......   The same person that opted to insulate bare wire with electrical tape..... Anywho...Cleaned out the 3-prong terminals with Isopropyl Alcohol and Q-tips.  Put the two large screws that held the whole potted motor in place back in and fed the wires down the head and behind the terminal.    Let them hang so you cut them at a comfortable length to terminate.

Singer 201-2 Subject A

I terminated the ends with terminal rings made for the same gauge wire and put all the wires back on the terminals.  

Red wire to #3 terminal, Black wire to #2 terminal.  The leads coming out of the head of the machine are for the light. One is connected to the switch and then comes back out of the switch and goes to terminal #3. The other lead coming directly out of the head goes to #1.   Add the brass rings back, put the knobs on, and screw the terminal box back to the machine and take her for a test drive.

Singer 201-2 Subject A

Plugged her in and hearing her rev up like a Porsche made my heart sing.  These machines, are like royalty when they are properly maintained and restored.    I'm off to work on the rest of her shiny bits now!   My customer is going to be so thrilled.   She thought she was going to be getting "Betsy the 2nd"...turns out, she's getting "Betsy the 1st!"

I forgot to mention - the serial number for this machine dates it to a set of numbers released on September 5, 1940.   "Betsy", as her new owner has chosen to call her, will be celebrating her 76th birthday next year.  And now, she'll run like a dream for another 76 years!   If you come across these beautiful machines, think twice before you put it to the curb or donate it to Goodwill.   They just don't make them like they used to.   If someone told me I had to get rid of all my sewing machines but one, MY Singer 201-2 would remain in my family for generations.